Treat me kindly, my beloved master, for no hear in all the world is more grateful for kindness than the loving heart of me.

Do not break my spirit with a stick, for though I should lick your hand between the blows, your patience and understanding will more quickly teach me the things you would have me do.

Speak to me often, for your voice is the world's sweetest music, as you must know by the fierce wagging of my tail when your footstep falls upon my waiting ear.

When it is cold and wet, please take me inside . . .  for I am now a domesticated animal, no longer used to bitter elements . . . and I ask no greater glory than the privilege of sitting at your feet beside the hearth . . . though had you no home, I would rather follow you through ice and snow than rest upon the softest pillow in the warmest home in all the land . . . for you are my god . . . and I am your devoted worshiper.

Keep my pan filled with fresh water, for although I should not reproach you were it dry, I cannot tell you when I suffer thirst.  Feed me clean food, that I may stay well, to romp and play and do your bidding, to walk by your side, and stand ready, willing and able to protect you with my life, should your life be in danger.

And, beloved master, should the Great Master see fit to deprive me of my health or sight, do not turn me away from you.  Rather hold me gently in your arms as skilled hands grant me the merciful boon of eternal rest . . . and I will leave you knowing with the last breath I drew, my fate was ever safest in your hands.

--Beth Norman Harris              

 A Dog is for Life.  Upon you, he depends for everything.  Make sure you are up to the task of providing for your friend, in health and in sickness.  If not, PLEASE do not acquire a dog. It is a commitment entailing great responsibility. 

!

Dog Group:

• Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI) Group 10 - (Coursing Hounds)
• AKC Hound Group

The National Clubs in the United States in order of number of dogs registered:

National Greyhound Association (NGA)

• PO Box 543, Abilene Kansas, 67410, 913 263 4660
• NGA Home Page
• e-mail mailto:nga@jc.net
• Adopt a Greyhound the National Greyhound Council greyhound adoption information site.

Greyhound Club of America (AKC Member Club)

• Corres. Secretary, Margaret Bryson, 15079 Meeting House Ln., Montpelier, VA 23192
• Breeder Contact, Margaret Bryson, 15079 Meeting House Ln., Montpelier, VA 23192 (804)883-7800

     Other Registration Organizations

• International: Federation Cynologique Internationale (FCI, Puerto Rico, South America, Morocco & Europe)

In Canada recognized by the: Canadian Kennel Club (CKC)
In the United States - Recognized coursing and racing competition by:

• NGA registered dogs - these are the greyhounds used in the United States in "professional" racing - that is racing with pari-mutual betting.
• National Oval Track Racing Association (NOTRA) - amateur - no betting oval track racing.
• Large Gazehound Racing Association (LGRA) amateur - no betting straight track racing.
• American Sighthound Field Association (ASFA)
• National Open Field Coursing Association (NOFCA)
• North American Coursing Association (NACA)

Breed Description:

• Original purpose and special abilities:

  A dog for high speed pursuit of sighted game in open country (coursing). These dogs possess great speed. Used to course small to medium sized quarry: fox, hare, coyote.

   

• Breed History:

  As with other Sighthounds, fanciers attempt to trace greyhounds back to those slender hunting dogs depicted by the Ancient Egyptians in their tomb paintings. There is good documentation for the folded ear (rose ear) greyhound in Europe from the middle ages on. They were traditionally associated with the hunting sports of the nobility.

   

  The breed was fairly popular in England in the 19th century and was used in the sport of open field coursing as well as participating in first dog shows. When track racing was introduced in the 20th century a schism appeared in the breed between the animals maintained primarily for show and those that were raced and coursed. Separate studbooks are maintained for the racing and coursing dogs in the United Kingdom and the United States. World wide there are many more dogs registered with the racing registries than with the show registries (36,000 NGA registered dogs in 1996 as compared with 220 AKC registered dogs, for example).

  At this time racing registered greyhounds can be registered with the AKC and other show registries as the breed is still considered as a single breed. With their very small gene pool the AKC registered dog population might suffer in the long run if the breed was officially 'split' and the AKC studbook closed to NGA originated dogs.

• Region of Origin:The smooth coated greyhound as we know it is also called the English Greyhound. Breeding records can be traced in England prior to 1770.
  
• Breed Registration Statistics:
  • AKC - 1996 - 218 individual registrations.
  • NGA - 1996 - 28,719 individual registrations.
• Size:
  • Weight (AKC breed standard) 65 to 70 (pounds): (dogs); 60 to 65 (bitches)
    
  • Height 25 to 29 (inches): (dogs); 24 to 27 (bitches)
    Among racing fanciers little attention is paid to height and the AKC breed standard does not list height.  Racing greyhounds tend to be a bit shorter and broader for any given weight than the show dogs.  However weight, which definitely affects performance, is recorded in advertisements for performance dog studs and discussed in the AKC breed standard.

    In the 1890's advertisements for American bred coursing greyhound sires listed weights running from 55 to 65 lbs. In 1997 dogs advertised in the NGA Sires book range from 55 to 85 lbs, averaging 65 lbs.

• Eye color: Dark, bright and intelligent. (AKC standard)
• Ear type:

  Rose (folded) ears, small in size and when unfolded, triangular in shape. Emphasis is put on ear form because a major cosmetic trait distinguishing the types of Sighthounds is in the form of the ear.  Some show breeders who emphasize the conformation ring are quite intolerant of dogs with stiff upstanding ears.

• Disqualifications: Breed disqualifications can lead to a dog be offered as a pet animal. One should never pay more for a dog with breed disqualifications because it is rare or unusual!
  • There are no breed specific disqualifications specified in the AKC Greyhound standard.
  • In most registries absence of two apparently normal, fully descended testicles in the scrotum in males is a general conformational disqualification.
• Cosmetic Surgeries (to establish 'breed look') None
• Color:

  Both solid and particolor markings, with or without black mask; with or without black mantle (overlay). Red, fawn, cream, with or without black overlay.  Black and blue dilution of black. Brindle of all colors.  Eye rims, lips, nose can be quite dark to black. Black and tan is not found, neither is merle. Particolor greyhounds may be so extensive in their white markings that the base color of the dog is apparent only on the ears or in the ticking and flecking on the white coat.

• Coat Type:

  The coat is soft, very short, and dense, the skin is fine and tight. Dogs habituated to cold winter weather will develop a thick soft winter coat rather like moleskin. When this sheds in the spring, the dog appears quite moth eaten for a while.  People desiring to keep the shiny short coat typically seen in show greyhounds need to blanket them in cold weather to prevent the growth of the short double layered winter coat.

• Temperament:

  Correct appreciation of the temperament of Greyhounds is of major importance because of the highly successful retired racing greyhound adoption programs in the United States. Adoption organizations do a fairly good job of educating the public as to the personality of these dogs. They also screen the adopters to eliminate obviously psychotic animals (and would be owners!)

   

  Although there is a range of temperaments in Greyhounds, these dogs typically have the western sighthound type personality. They are friendly and fairly outgoing and can adapt to new ownership situations without much difficulty. They are, however, hunting dogs and can become quite focused on the pursuit of small animals that they perceive as legitimate game. Up to three or four dogs generally get along well as a social unit but when their numbers get greater, caution needs to be taken to ensure that the pack does not decide to severely persecute one member (called "packing up" or "mobbing"). There is a real reason why greyhounds turned out to exercise in large numbers wear turn out muzzles.

  As with many hunting breeds strongly selected for a specific quarry, these dogs, even when strongly focused on hunting are unlikely to be aggressive to humans.  Care should be taken with them around infants and small children, who are sometimes not recognized as human by the dog due to the child's high pitched voice and rapid, erratic motions.

  As with other Sighthound breeds they "get along well with children taught to respect them." (direct quote of Dominique Crapon de Caprona, Ph.D.'s excellent article relating to Sloughis).  However it is important to remember that the emphasis is on children taught to respect them. This means the dog behaves in a safe fashion when in the presence of children who do not tease or mistreat it. This does not mean that the parent can allow the child to manhandle the dog as if it was a stuffed toy.

• Special Requirements:
• These are coursing hounds and require adequate exercise. They will use a crate as a personal cave. Retired racers will tolerate crating as a means of housing for fairly long periods of time. However anyone contemplating ownership of a large dog who finds that they need to crate the animal more than 10 hours in 24 should reconsider owning the animal.

 Greyhounds are a short coated breed and must be provided with warm shelter in cold weather. As a guideline my greyhounds are generally happy to be outside in the daytime hours in Western Colorado during the winter. They will put on a dense winter moleskin type coat in temperatures below 40 degrees F.  However they must have  warm sleeping quarters that are above freezing. Greyhounds exposed to very cold weather without a warm retreat can develop frostbite of the ears in winter climates in such places as Massachusetts. During cold weather they are happy to play and run in the cold, but they must have resting areas that are maintained above freezing temperatures.

 Typical Competitive Activities for this Breed:

 

All forms of Sighthound field sports: Lure coursing, NOTRA racing. LGRA racing, open field coursing.  Growing participation in obedience and agility events by owners.

Among the Sighthounds, the Greyhound has a stronger level of food treat motivation than breeds such as Borzoi and Saluki. However individuals can still show stress anorexia. Obedience work is pleasant and quite possible with them but a patient instructor who knows how to motivate dogs that (1) do not readily take food rewards and (2) that become inhibited by rough corrections - is needed. They love being petted and massaged so vocal praise can be associated with petting episodes in much the same manner as it is linked with food rewards in more typical operant conditioning training techniques.

 

 

• Genetic problems commonly encountered in this breed:

  This is a healthy breed. Racing greyhounds are unique as the breeding programs of the NGA breeders concentrate on dogs that have had a successful racing career. Many dogs and bitches are not bred until they are over 4 years of age. In addition they are strongly selected for physical fitness and vigor. This phenomenon of selection of breeding stock almost exclusively from successful athletes is quite different from the norm in pure bred dog breeding.

  Normal sized, muscular animals are unlikely to have hip dysplasia. Bloat is rare. Older dogs may be prone to kidney failure. These dogs may be quite sensitive to toxins, pesticides and anesthesia so care needs to be taken in applying general pesticides to them. Seek out a veterinarian with experience with greyhounds and other sight hounds.

  The AKC registered show bred greyhounds are also resistant to hip dysplasia and generally long lived.

• Non-genetic health problems commonly encountered in this breed:

  Greyhounds are prone to an number of traumatic injuries associated with the high speeds they can achieve. Animals running full speed on rough terrain frequently injure toes (not life threatening) and inexperienced owners must seek out knowledgeable advisers on proper techniques of conditioning if the dogs are going to be lure coursed.

• Breed Pluses:

  A healthy breed with little odor and few reported inherited problems. They are more outgoing than the oriental sight hounds. However people whose dog owning experience has been with sporting breeds will still find, in many cases, them to be a bit stand-offish or distantly friendly. As with other sight hounds these are not dogs for people who feel a dog should be free to roam at will, they have to be carefully introduced to small, scurrying pets. In general they are relatively long lived (12 to 16 years) for their size.

  They are lovely to look at and are generally clean as house dogs. Puppies and adolescents can be very destructive, the adult retired racers are used to quiet time in the crate. Some can be vocal watch dogs and afford a sense of security.

• Breed Minuses:

  They like to chase things. However they are more likely to find their way home if they get out by accident than some of the other sighthound breeds. In large numbers (ie more than 4 or 5) they can be prone to "packing up" (mass attacks on a single underdog). When frustrated and confined they can be destructive chewers.

  As with other Sighthounds, these are hunting dogs with a full set of hunting dog instincts. While protective of the home they do not feel a strong sense of property boundaries. They need protection from cold.

• Who should own a Greyhound?

  People who are willing to understand and enjoy the nature of sighthounds. Along with the whippet this breed is a good beginner sighthound breed for a person new to sighthounds. People who own cats and appreciate the independence of the cat often find sighthound quite pleasant to own. However any dog needs training and socialization into the household social order at a much higher level than a cat, a dog cannot be allowed to just grow up.

• Who should not own a Greyhound?
• People who expect a high degree of obedience and compliance to rules will find Greyhounds frustrating to own.  People who have problems owning a hunting breed of dog with the need for adequate fencing and supervision in unfenced areas will be dissatisfied because the dog is always running away to hunt.
• Aesthetic Deficiencies: Often these are also the breed disqualifications and are legitimate reasons for a dog to be sold at a pet price on a 'neuter contract'. These should not detract from the health of the dog or its suitability as a pet.
  • Tail Deformed tail, Spitz type high curled tail carriage.
  • Eyes Very light, staring eyes or blue eyes.
  • Ears Ears habitually carried erect or hanging by the side of the head.
  • Dentition Undershot or overshot occlusion or many missing teeth.
• Do not buy a puppy that is 'sold as a pet because it' is/has:
  • It is excessively fearful or excessively aggressive.
  • It has a really exaggerated posture - front feet flat on the ground to the stop pad, hind feet flat on the ground.
  • Chronic lameness is a 2 to 5 month old puppy.
  • The unhealthy scrawny pup in the litter. This pup may have any one of a number of life threatening congenital illnesses such as a major heart anomaly, pancreatitus, severe food sensitivities.
  • An extremely large puppy for its age with very large, tender or hot to the touch "growth knobs" at the wrists and ankles. Very rapidly growing puppies are much more likely to have joint problems later in life. This is in part a management problem. These dogs can be feed to rich a diet as pups and pushed to grow too rapidly. Too rapid growth is generally an error made by novice owners and breeders.
  • A pup from an excessively inbred litter.

   

  Article based on original writing by - Bonnie Dalzell

• How long have you had greyhounds?                                                             
• Do you have a written contract and puppy guarantee?
• What guidance would you offer in the areas of socialization and training?
• Do you plan to keep a puppy from this litter?
• What is your purpose for breeding this litter?
• How did you choose your breeding stock?
• What titles do you seek for your breeding stock?
• What health clearances do you get for your breeding stock?
• What do you consider proper Greyhound temperament?
• What health problems exist in the breed?
• What would you consider characteristics of an ideal Greyhound home?

 A visit to the Breeders home to see first hand how the greyhounds are kept should be manditory.  Beware the party that wants to meet you at a local other than where they live. 

What to look for while visiting  (to be continued)

"Health guaranteed!"

This "reassuring" platitude is how pet shops and irresponsible breeders seek to get around the expenses of genetic testing.  Don't fall for this con!

 Let's look at it from the PUPPY'S point of view. Guarantees don't help a puppy at all. You get your money back--maybe--engaging the services of an attorney and a court appearance may be required-and face it, many unethical breeders are betting that average consumer will not go to the expense and just walk away.  Most do.  However, the puppy still has to live with the genetic health problems that could have been avoided -- if his breeder had been seeking to produce healthy lives rather than seeking to keep his expenses down by avoiding genetic health testing.

We're talking about quality of life here. Don't support any breeder or pet shop who cares so little about the future life of their puppies that they do not require genetic health testing of the parents.

Not just HEALTH problems

 Obedience instructors and canine behavioral consultants will be happy to tell you about the temperament and behavior problems that develop in many pet shop puppies as they grow up.

Most pet shop puppies start out playful and friendly, but as they mature, their genes begin to assert themselves.  If their parents or grandparents had shy or aggressive or hyperactive temperaments, those genes will show up during adolescence and adulthood.

Many pet shop puppies are nippy.  Some were removed from their mother before 7 weeks of age, a critical period of time where she teaches them "bite inhibition."  Some have learned to nip from interacting with so many potential owners wandering through the pet shop, including kids who tug and play roughly.  Most of these potential owners thought the nipping was cute, didn't correct the puppy for it, and so the habit becomes entrenched.

Finally, raised in a small cage in which they're encouraged to eliminate freely, pet shop puppies are notoriously difficult to housebreak.

The major reason not to buy -- supporting the industry

You may wish to "rescue" a pet shop puppy. That's completely understandable. We all feel sorry for them.

But your good intentions will backfire, because you are feeding the industry by rewarding it with money.

You've emptied one cage, yes -- which creates demand for yet another litter to be produced to fill that cage. Even if you're very, very lucky, and your one individual puppy turns out okay, a large percentage of the others will not -- and YOU provided the incentive for them to be born by buying the one who came before them.

So what seems like a simple, isolated purchase actually contributes to:

The misery of adult females who spend their lives in a cage, being bred again and again to provide puppies that you and others can buy

The misery of these future puppies born with health and temperament problems 

 The misery of future families who buy these puppies and then try to cope with the health and temperament problems 

 The misery of animal rescue groups trying to deal with the flood of pet shop puppies dumped on their doorstep because families gave up on the health and temperament problems. A high percentage of dogs abandoned to shelters are the sad products of puppy mills.

If a breeder can only tell you that a vet checked the dog and found it healthy then they do not have the information they need to breed healthy dogs. Even in breeds with a very low rate of problems the educated breeder knows enough to know the most common problems in *other* breeds and how those problems are discovered. Again, look at the source of information. Sorry, but veterinarians *aren't* the best source of learning what genetic problems affect what breeds. They are generally more concerned with the general dog population, and what problems are actually affecting the life of the dog before them. They leave it to breeders to detect and avoid the potential for problems in future dogs.

• List the typical genetic diseases for your breed.

• Where did the list come from? What resources were used to learn about the typical genetic diseases?

• What is the level of seriousness of those diseases? Which are correctable or treatable? Which affect the quality of life for the dog, or are a burden on the owner?

• What steps can be taken to reduce the risk of the serious genetic disease?

  • For each genetic problem list how the problem can be identified. Explain whether an ordinary veterinary exam will discover the problem at the age the dog is to be bred. Confirm whether carriers can be identified by blood, DNA, or other tests (make sure you know what a carrier is). Determine how information can be gathered about problems that cannot be detected by test. What evidence can the breeder give to the buyer that these steps have been taken?

  • What books, seminars or classes were used to learn about basic genetics, breed specific problems, and steps that can be used to reduce the risk of those problems?

• What evidence can the breeder show you of steps taken for the good genetic health of this particular litter? Certificates? Paperwork?

• Are the great-grandparents still alive? If any are not, what did they die of? And the progeny of the great-grandparents? What is the health of other dogs in the line?

• Can the breeder provide you with health clearance information (OFA?CERF,etc.) of at least some other dogs in the line, not just the parents?
  For the most part a breeder should know the health and fitness of the immediate family members. Making good breeding decisions requires knowing the health of as much of the immediate family as possible. The more information the breeder has on other dogs in the pedigree the more confident you can be that the breeder has been making good decisions.

• Does the health guarantee offered reflect confidence in the genetic health of the puppies? A two year guarantee is a bare minimum. It avoids covering late onset problems such as blindness and cardiac problems. Such a short guarantee suggests the breeder doesn't really understand the difference between fault and responsibility. A breeder who truly stands behind their dogs accepts responsibility for genetic problems even if it is not their fault that those problems occur. Less than a two year guarantee is simply unacceptable as so many conditions will not be detectable at an early age.

• Steps taken to produce dogs of predictable qualities.

  • Does the breeder possess a physical copy of the breed standard?

  • What resources does the breeder use to get more technical information on the breed such as pedigrees, knowledge of genetic problems, health testing, advanced training etc.?

  • Can the breeder list the dam's strengths and weaknesses in relation to the breed standard?

    • How were these strengths and weaknesses evaluated?

    • How did the person who evaluated the strengths and weaknesses obtain the expertise to make the evaluation?

    • How can the objectivity of the evaluation be assessed?

  • Can the breeder list the sire's strengths and weaknesses in relation to the breed standard?

    • How were these strengths and weaknesses evaluated?

    • How did the person who evaluated the strengths and weaknesses obtain the expertise to make the evaluation?

    • How can the objectivity of the evaluation be assessed?

  • Compare the temperament of the dam to what is common in the breed

    • How were these qualities evaluated?

    • How did the person making the evaluation obtain the expertise to make the evaluation

    • How can the objectivity of the evaluation be assessed?

    • In what way do these qualities benefit the breed?

  • Compare the temperament of the sire to what is common in the breed

    • How were these qualities evaluated?

    • How did the person making the evaluation obtain the expertise to make the evaluation?

    • How can the objectivity of the evaluation be assessed?

    • In what way do these qualities benefit the breed?

  • List the other dogs in the pedigree that were examined for health or temperament before the decision was made to breed this sire to this dam.

    • What strengths and weakness were discovered?

    • What is the expected influence of those strengths and weaknesses?

  • Are these puppies expected to conform to breed standard? If they do not conform to breed standard then in what way do they deviate from breed standard? If there is deviation why did that occur? Note, this is not necessarily a bad thing just something both breeder and buyer should be clear on. Be aware that deviation from standard tends to represent extremes - the very worst breeders, and some of the very best. The worst situation is a breeder who either doesn't know, or doesn't care if there is a deviation (i.e. is thoughtless about it).

  • Any deviation from breed standards should be thoughtful, well researched and expressly disclosed in the contract. The breeder should be prepared to discuss the breed standard and the degree to which the puppies will conform or deviate from that standard, the goals of the breeding in general, and the reason for selecting that sire and that dam in particular.

  • What has the breeder produced already? If the breeder has produced puppies in the past has the breeder kept in touch? Is the breeder concerned with their welfare? Has the breeder recorded their health and temperament as they mature and age?

  • What is the breeder doing to follow up on what they have produced? Trying to do a good job of producing healthy puppies of appropriate temperament becomes a futile exercise if the breeder does nothing to find out whether those attempts have been successuful. What went right and what went wrong is viatl in continuing to improve. Surprises happen all the time. Genetics is complex and sometimes what seems like a perfect match ends up with unexpected problems. Really critical problems might come to the attention of even the disinterested breeder. But to ensure that apparently smaller things, like allergies, are caught breeders need to keep in touch, show an intereest and expressly ask about things the average person might not think important enough to report.

• Evaluating the buyer to determine a good match for the breed is important as is making sure there are competent buyers available. What steps has the breeder taken to locate potential buyers before the mating?

• What questions did the breeder ask you?

• A breeder who cares for dogs does their very best to make sure that the puppy goes to a home that has both the willingness and the ability to provide what the puppy needs to grow up into a happy, healthy wonderful pet. That means the breeder is going to need some information from you. Be prepared to provide the answers and please don't feel insulted. It may not feel like it but they aren't asking questions to make you feel bad. They are just doing the best for their puppies. If you aren't comfortable with the breeder, or how they deal with you, then move on to another. Just understand that their goal is to do the best they can for the puppy, and the breeder is human and may have a hard time coming up with the right tone. Also don't feel that just because you made a mistake or had a bad experience that no breeder will ever consider you "worthy" of a puppy. It is true that some just won't take a chance. Most, however, just want to know what has changed. What will prevent the same kind of problem from happening again.

• A breeder will want to know about your experience with dogs. Your experience can range from never having shared a home with a dog, to growing up with a dog, to having complete responsibility for a dog. The breed (or breeds) will be important, as will the age you got the dog, how long you had it, and your level of responsibility in caring for it (that is did you just live in the same household, or were you the primary caretaker). If you taught the dog anything more than basic good manner that is a big plus.

• A breeder will want to know who else will be sharing the household or will be regular visitors. The experience needed to have a dog in which children are a regular part of the household is higher than if generally only adults are present. If you are expecting a child within two years of getting the dog expect to be questioned especially closely as that is an extra challenge for the average, less experienced person.

• Similarly a good breeder will want to know whether other pets either share the household or will be regular visitors. If there are other pets the breeder should ask further questions about your experience on supervising and managing so that there can be a safe and peaceful coexistence. If your community limits the number of pets you can keep in one household the breeder will expect you to know that information and to commit to not violating those limits.

• A breeder will want to know about the space you live in. One of the most important questions is whether you own or rent. If you rent you should expect the breeder to ask for proof that the landlord permits dogs. One of the highest risks to dogs is being sneaked into an apartment where pets are forbidden. Many a dog has lost its life in the pound when the person faced the choice of eviction or getting rid of the dog. If the space is relatively confined the breeder will want to know whether you have taken that into consideration. Different breeds have different indoor activity levels. You may be asked whether you have a fenced yard. Some breeders will say they will never place a dog in a home without a fenced yard. I understand their rationale but I'm not entirely sure I agree with the results. All too often the presence of a fenced yard means the dog never sees anything but the house and yard. In any case you should be prepared to answer to the real concern, which is how will you ensure the dog is safe and controlled both in getting exercise and in going out for bodily relief. As part of that the breeder should be given pretty specific information about your plans for daily exercise and training - how long and how much of each.

• The more specific and well thought out your plans for teaching the dog how to be well mannered the better the breeder will feel. Even better is to have specific plans and honest commitment to getting involved in some kind of regular activity with the dog. That could be any number of things from the informal to the formal.

• Getting into the more touchy areas the breeder will want to make sure you are both aware and realistic about both the time and financial commitment you are making. Before you contact a breed you should have gotten a good idea of costs annual veterinary visits, licensing, grooming, training, food, supplies and allowance for emergency vet care. Try to save the breeder the awkwardness of asking by volunteering your awareness and ability to meet those needs.

• Expect to be asked why you want a dog, and why you want this particular breed. One of the big reasons dogs don't keep their original homes is that people aren't always realistic in their expectations. Permanent placement requires realistic expectations by the buyer.

• A common theme is to get a dog "for the kids". Any responsible breeder will instantly focus in on that reason. A dog is not an educational tool. There is certainly much value and learning in pet ownership but the desire and motivation to have a dog must start with the parties responsible for the dog - the parents. If keeping the dog is dependent upon the interest and involvement of the children a responsible breeder will not place the dog in that family.

• If you are young the breeder may again pose awkward but necessary questions about your plans for the future. Showing the breeder that you have not only thought ahead but you are realistic about your ability to continue to provide for the needs of the dog is important. For example, if you are a teenager getting a dog the good breeder will want to make sure that there are solid and realistic plans for the dog when you leave home. If you think you are going to take the dog with you then you will be expected to know and be able to deal with the difficulties and expense of finding housing. If the dog will be left behind then someone else in the household will have to show the same love and caring you have before the breeder will ever let the dog go to you. Otherwise when you leave the dog may suffer.

OK, if you have plowed through all that let me take a moment to remind you. You won't find a breeder that does all of the above. The purpose of the list is to help you get a feel for what responsible breeding is all about. It is to help you understand the reasons for requirements or provisions that might otherwise seem bizarre or overbearing. It is also to help you get enough knowledge to distinguish the good talker from the good doer. A great talker has reasons for everything, but if you know what to ask their story doesn't hold together. Don't be afraid to ask questions. The better the breeder the happier they will be that you care enough to not just swallow things whole. On the other hand don't be offensive about it. You will want to build a relationship of trust because if you have found a truly caring breeder you have found gold.